By Jen Murphy
Photography by Scott Markewitz
A canopy of emerald aspen leaves shimmers in the sun like sequins above our peloton of cyclists. It’s a warm summer day in Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley and our Lycra-clad group of riders has left the buzz of downtown Aspen behind, furiously pedaling along a dusty country road hugging bucolic ranchlands.
We’re part of Clip-In, The Little Nell’s signature cycling trip hosted by Christian Vande Velde. The retired pro is at the head of the pack and unbeknownst to me, he isn’t the only rider with an award-winning athletic résumé.
An Aspen local, clearly acclimated to the high altitude, has been effortlessly chatting with me during the last few miles, as we snake through a tight canyon. At nearly 8,000 feet above sea level, I struggle to politely choke out one-word answers to his queries as our route climbs upward. When we reach the historic mining community of Lenado—today, just a handful of dilapidated log cabins—we break for water and snacks. My new friend takes off his oversized shades, high-fives me, and introduces himself as Dav.
“Like the skier?” I blurt out. He nods with a boyish grin. Not like the skier, I realize, but the Chris Davenport, one of the greatest freeskiers ever. A two-time world champion, he was the first person to ski all 54 of Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks in less than one year. “You’re a really good cyclist,” I tell him. He lets out a laugh, and we get back in the saddle.
As we ascend Larkspur Mountain Road, the views distract me from my aching legs. Dav points out the red-hued Maroon Bells and 14ers like Capitol and Pyramid Peak in the distance. My tennis shoes are a dead giveaway that I’m a novice cyclist, and he kindly gives me pointers. “Try to relax your shoulders and elbows and keep a light grip on the handlebars,” he advises, noticing my white-knuckle clutch. On our return to Aspen, we detour off the paved Rio Grande Trail to Woody Creek Tavern, writer Hunter S. Thompson’s storied watering hole, for beers and nachos. Dav and I clink glasses, then he confides, “I could have gone pro.”
That evening, I do some Googling from the much-needed comfort of my bed at The Little Nell and discover that Dav grew up skiing and mountain biking in New Hampshire’s White Mountains. He was on the national junior cycling team with Olympian Tyler Hamilton. Over coffee with him the next day, I learn that part of the reason he decided to attend college at the University of Colorado Boulder was the access to awesome mountain and road biking. “I ultimately pursued skiing, but I’ve always been a cycling nut,” he says. “When I’m skiing deep powder in Japan in the heart of winter, I’m going to be dreaming of spring bike trips.”
His latest obsession, gravel cycling, which blends elements of road and mountain biking, is quickly gaining popularity in the U.S. Gravel bikes have drop bars, like road bikes, but thicker tires that can handle a variety of terrain, from dirt roads to root-webbed single track. The appeal, he says, is being able to get away from vehicle traffic without having to hone the technical skills needed for mountain biking. “Road cycling is like skiing the groomers at a resort, and mountain biking is like going off-piste,” he explains. “Gravel combines elements of both: You get the adventure of mountain biking with the fitness aspects of road cycling.”
After the Clip-In event, I remain in Aspen for three more days, and Dav kindly offers to show me more of his favorite gravel rides, including several in the Roaring Fork Valley—itself a gravel-riding mecca. (He loves sharing his outdoor passions and offers cycling and skiing guiding services through
his website, chrisdavenport.com.)
“We are surrounded by national forest with beautifully maintained forest service roads and trails,” he says. “It provides an incredible opportunity to avoid cars and go deep into nature. It’s truly a gravel-cyclist playground.”
On my final day, we tackle what he describes as an “epic.” From Aspen, we hop on the Rio Grande bike path and pedal northwest at a mellow pace for around 20 miles to the town of Basalt. From there, we leave civilization behind as we connect onto Frying Pan Road—named for the gold-medal fishing waters it parallels—and begin our 14-mile ride past crimson rock outcrops, vast meadows, and aspen forests toward Ruedi Reservoir. By now, I’ve finally acclimated enough that I can hear the babble of the river above my breathing and hold a conversation with Dav. His pointers, like shifting my weight forward on the ascents and pumping my brakes on the descents so I don’t skid out, are invaluable.
Finally, the reservoir appears like a sparkling turquoise mirage, surrounded by dense pines. I’m so sweaty I’m tempted to hop off my bike and dive in. Instead, Dav navigates me to a small log cabin that houses the Meredith General Store. I guzzle my Gatorade as he rattles off options: We could continue up to Hagerman Pass, a high-mountain pass that connects to Leadville, America’s highest town, or ride Crooked Creek Pass to Sylvan Lake.
Saddle sore, I confide, I’ve had my gravel fix for the day, but I’ll certainly be coming back for more. Maybe by next year I’ll even be clipping in.
A Perfect Ride
Chris Davenport shares his top spots—pre-, post-, and during a ride—for an epic day on gravel.
Gear Check
For top-of-the-line rentals, Dav suggests Basalt Bike and Ski (basaltbikeandski.com), which has locations throughout the Roaring Fork Valley, including Aspen. In-house technicians help with everything from tune-ups to changing a flat.
Nestled right below the gondola, Aspen Collection (aspencollection.com) rents the latest carbon-frame gravel and road bikes, including electric models like the Ventum ES1-G. There’s also an on-site café for pre- and post-ride espresso and pastries.
Favorite Routes
East Sopris Creek Road begins on the outskirts of Basalt and provides a great introduction to gravel riding. “When you’re ready for more, you can connect to Old Snowmass and the town of Emma, known for its old schoolhouse,” Dav says. “The entire loop is around 15 miles, with some rolling terrain that hugs ranchland and provides awesome views of Mount Sopris and Capitol Peak.”
Another top spot, Snowmass Creek Road in Old Snowmass, is practically a secret. “I rarely see more than two cars,” Dav says of the half-pavement, half-dirt route. “You can ride it up to the ski area, which is a pretty big climb, or turn around where the climb starts.”
Mid-ride Boost
“Having spent time riding in Europe, I’m a huge fan of the espresso stop,” Dav says. If he’s riding through Basalt, he pops into family-run CCs Café (@ccscafebasalt). In Aspen, he gets his caffeine fix at Unravel Coffee + Bar (unravel.coffee).
Post-ride Eats
“My wife, Jesse, is also a big cyclist and we often end up at Clark’s [clarksoysterbar.com] for après-biking small bites, or Silverpeak Grill [silverpeakgrillcatering.com], which is known for its burgers and tacos.” The Big Wrap (970.544.1700) is another go-to spot when Dav’s famished and craving something quick and easy.